A foodie hot take: The onion burger is underrated

On a recent Monday, I biked to the Leavitt Street Inn & Tavern in Bucktown to find the place already packed to the gills at the geriatric hour of 5 p.m. We’d all descended for the same thing: burgers whacked into paper-thin disks on a super-hot griddle, seared until crisp then piled on a sesame seed